Wednesday, March 27, 2013

For Future Volunteers...


I’m sitting at the provincial house in Chipata again, waiting for meds to come up from Lusaka so I have some time and some parasites to kill. I’ve been thinking about the new RED intake coming in June a lot since I found out that I will be one of their trainers through their PST. It’s been almost exactly a year now since my intake completed training and swore in as PCVs and I’m realizing how far I’ve actually come. I was going a bit crazy in the process of preparing myself to leave my life for the unknown that is Peace Corps service in a country that nobody has even heard of. No offense, Zambia. I’m hoping that I can help the new intake by writing a bit about my experience and what to expect when you can’t quite fathom the life you signed yourself up for. I wish I’d done a few things very differently.

It was my first time leaving the country and I literally didn’t sleep the whole week before coming. I can’t even describe the emotions I went through during those last few weeks in the states but I guess excited, anxious, hopeful and terrified could sum it up. Watching youtube videos of PCVs in Zambia really helped with the sleepless nights. I think I’ll make one eventually. But I made it through the long, extended goodbyes, the packing (I seriously did an awful job, more on that later) and I watched my dad drive away from the hotel in Philadelphia where staging is held. His last advice to me was to pick one person each day and make them the center of my world, that’s how I could make a difference. I told him to buy a bar. And then I was alone. I think about that moment a lot, it’s one of those memories I’ll probably never forget. If you’re in the new intake, you should get ready for a lot of those.

Meeting the other volunteers in my intake was surreal. We had a facebook group to bond us somewhat beforehand but it was still an experience meeting 35 other young Americans with similar ideals but a world of difference between each of us. In staging there is, of course, last minute paperwork but the sessions mostly involve our feelings and expectations. Hopes, dreams, anxieties, we covered it all. We had 1 night to spend in Philly with our bus to JFK departing at some ungodly hour. Obviously sleep wasn’t an option so we went out in groups to have dinner, drink beers and best of all, sing karaoke. It was a tremendous stress reliever and I highly recommend it. You will never get more drinks paid for than if you talk about leaving for 2 years to serve in Africa and the closer you get to departure, the more true that is. I think my group got an entire bottle of Patron paid for by the end of the night. Honestly, I don’t know why Philadelphians get such a bad rep.


 Here's some of my group on our last night in America.


After our “last” big blowout we caught the bus up to New York, got there quite a bit early and had to sit in the lobby for hours. Some people slept on the floor, some played cards or just talked. I was feeling a strange disconnect from everyone. Like, I knew we were all getting into the same thing and we’d be spending all this time together, yet I was still wrapped up in my own head. It’s a strange thing, saying goodbye to the life you know where you have great friends and family that know everything about you, accept you, where you can predict what’ll happen on any given day… and then leaving it for a life you know nothing about. I felt like everyone else was way more prepared. I was nervous that I wasn’t going to fit in or that I wouldn’t make it through training or that Zambia would be awful. It’s a lot to take in and looking back, I wish I’d just taken more time to prepare myself, both mentally and in the literal sense. I didn’t even know what I had packed (the night before) in my gigantic bag that I couldn’t manage to carry. Even my carry-on bags were awkward. I was off to a poor start. Here’s a good tip for when you pack, think about how you’re going to carry all of your baggage. I had to move mine one by one and I wish my bigger checked bag had wheels. A lot of people had a hiking pack as their carry on and a small backpack worn on the front as their 2nd carry-on. I was jealous of those people. As an obsessively organized person, I was lost, and I had only myself to blame. But hey, it was a crazy time and we all deal in different ways. This is what all of my baggage amounted to. Imagine lugging all of that around the hotel, airport, etc...
 
I found a great quote not long ago that I chalked up on my porch. “Take it all in, it’s as big as it seems. Count all your blessings, remember your dreams.” I look at it now as a way to remind myself of how huge what I’m doing is when I get lost in the mundane day-to-day of it all but thinking about it then would’ve been a great way to calm myself down through the first hours and days of my new life.

So, we finally got on the flight. I took Tylenol PM and passed out almost the entire time, with meals arriving every time I came to. South African Airline serves really good food. This was the first of many, many meals that was provided for us. Future volunteers, be aware that you will have way too much to eat for the next 3 months and very little time to burn it off. As a general rule, girls gain a good bit of weight during this time and then even more during community entry. Good luck!

We had to steer ourselves through the airport as a very large group. I was one of four group leaders that helped to count heads and try to make things run smoothly. Happily, we all made it through Johannesburg, nothing was stolen, and we finally arrived in Zambia. We were met by a lady on the Peace Corps staff, she greeted us by taking some of our important documents and showing us through the small lobby to where a line of cruisers were waiting to take us and all of our things to the hotel.

We stayed at The Barn Motel and future volunteers, you probably will too. It’s a nice place, much nicer than any of us expected. We were immediately brought into a conference room for a medical session. It was awful. The last thing you want to do at that point is sit and hear about serious things. But you have to. You have sessions the next day too but it wasn’t all bad. The diversity panel was my favorite, where a group of volunteers came to talk about how they cope with their own diversity issues in Zambia. When a village requests a volunteer from the American Peace Corps, they expect their volunteer to be a young, white, stereotypical American. As you may know, not all of us fit that description. You’ll also meet the volunteer leader from each province who will talk about what you can expect from the 6 provinces that Peace Corps serves in. The PCVLs offered to take $100 from each of us that wanted a standard phone, a SIM card and talk time and bring them back from town. The overwhelming majority of my group regretted getting this phone, it’s crap and you can get good phones for just over $100. Most of the intake bought new phones within the next month but I couldn’t rationalize the waste of money. It’s the reason I’m one of the only volunteers without internet in my village. I remember how much I wanted to call home, to let them know I was ok and update them on what was happening but I recommend waiting until you go into Lusaka to get your phone. You’ll go after maybe 2 days in country to get supplies for your first site visit. The cruisers will come to take you to a really nice mall with a grocery store inside, this place literally has everything you could possibly want. And great food. And a movie theater. There are so many possibilities!

I think there are only 2 nights at The Barn until the first site visit, where you’ll go in groups of 4 to a village where a volunteer is currently serving. They’ll give you a list of groceries to buy from Lusaka that you’ll cook together during your stay. Site visits are all about the meals. You can cook just about anything on a brazier, including cakes and bread. It’s amazing. You’ll be given an allowance to spend and will probably use most of it. Honestly, you don’t get paid a lot during training but fortunately there is not much you’ll need to buy. Your site visits will be with volunteers from my intake so you can talk all about the RED project with some great people. Keep in mind that this will be the only time for the next few months that you have all day to do whatever you like, so enjoy it! And enjoy your time at The Barn. Each intake is unique but as for my own, a lot of us took to the bar that is within the grounds of the motel. There will probably be some volunteers there waiting to meet you, we’re all very excited to meet new people, get some fresh clean faces to look at and welcome you into the greatest extended family you will ever be a part of. I thought I was leaving my social life behind me in America but I was very, very wrong. Also, about the beer… if you keep your expectations really low, it probably won’t be as bad as you thought.

After your site visit they’ll take you back to The Barn for another night where you find out what language you’ll learn, join the group you’ll be learning with and practice some phrases to greet your homestay families. The majority of you will learn “muli shani” or, “how are you?” in Bemba. The lucky ones will learn “muli bwanji” and know from that day on that you will be a part of Eastern Province, the biggest and best province of all. You’ll spend entirely too much time with the people in your language group and you will learn to love them after you get to know them far too well. The trainers are all pretty great and you will make it through, just prepare yourself for some intense and boring language, technical, medical, safety/security and anything-else-that-you-can-possibly-think-of sessions. Your first 3 months are packed with them. Including half days on Saturdays. Oh, and just so you know, somebody in all of the homestay families know English at least fairly well. My mama played a funny joke on me my first night, it was awkward for me and really funny for her. Zambians are hilarious like that.

You’ll get your own house through training, your own bathing structure and your own poop hole, known as the chimbudzi. Your leg muscles will get strong very quickly. This is what the inside of my hut looked like during training. You can lock up the things you brought that you don’t want in your small, temporary house like tents, sleeping bags, etc. Honestly, you don’t need to pack much. You really only need clothing for the first months and whatever hygiene products and electronics that will make you happy. Since I put no effort into my own packing and did literally no research, I made you guys a list of what I wish I’d brought. In a way, this makes me feel like I’m redeeming myself. Otherwise, that concludes what to expect when you first get to Zambia. The training can be rough but enjoy it. Your intake group is your family so soak it up and really get to know everybody. I hope this helped and if you have any other questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

Packing list:

Clothing: REDs have it the worst since we always have to look presentable and have a “real” job. Pack a few nice things but nothing you don’t want irreparably damaged. There are plenty of good second hand shops and it’s perfectly acceptable to regularly repeat outfits. Don’t over-pack because you will accumulate a ton of things here.
- 5 decent looking short sleeve and 2 long sleeve shirts
- 5 tank tops
- 2 cardigans, 1 long sleeve, 1 short. ¾ length are nonsense here.
- 2 crappy t-shirts for exercise and 2 long sleeves, maybe waffle shirts or a flannel. It does get cold sometimes.
- 1 hoodie
- 1 light jacket like a blazer/denim/fleece. It’ll be your go-to.
- 2 pairs loose fitting trousers. REI has nice ones with zip-off pant legs.
- leggings are good for biking in skirts and nice for cold season
- bring some jeans and a couple of going-out outfits, you’ll want to look good sometimes!
- 2 bathing suits for vacation and the chance of a swimming pool
- 4 long skirts, must be past the knees. Zambians view thighs as the “gateway” and it’s offensive to see any part of them.
- 2 pairs of flip flops, nothing special. I opted out of chakos and have no regrets- they’re ugly.
- 1 decent pair of shoes for teaching/nice occasions. You can wear open-toe shoes to teach, even Zambians do it.
- shoes for running/hiking.
- long shorts/ ¾ length pants for exercise.
- I brought rain boots and wish I didn’t, they were too big for my bag so I wore them on the plane and have worn them once. It was an awkward regret.
- You won’t regret too much underwear.
- 1 or 2 hats, sunglasses, any cute accessories and jewelry that will make you happy. You’re just as likely to lose these things in America as you are here and honestly, you might miss something. I miss my rings.
- a wrist watch
- I got a compression sack for my clothes and loved it, it works well and gives you a lot of extra room.

Practical ideas: Keep in mind, you can get almost all of this in country. Lusaka is a very modern place, especially where PC brings you, but it’s expensive and some of their merchandise is not very good quality. You probably have a lot of these items lying around. I found a lot at REI but there’s no PC discount so shop wisely. You can also have your loved ones ship some of this to you when you need it, the first 3 months you really don’t need a lot.
- small tent (great for site visits, I got a cheap one from Walmart but nice tents are just nice to have. You’ll probably wish you had one at some point and it’s a good investment.)
- light, compact sleeping bag
- bike saddle bags. The waterproof clip-on ones are the nicest. Peace Corps gives you a helmet and bike through training and a new bike when you swear in. I have a nice cushy American seat that I got from a volunteer that left, it’s amazing for long rides. Buy one and have it shipped to you.
- head lamp is an absolute must
- rechargeable speakers. Tweaker speakers are a great option.
- 2 good water bottles, nalgene is my preferred brand. Make sure you stuff them with tooth paste or other small things that take up space.
- carabiners, multiple sizes.
- portable first aid kit. PC provides a big one but I like to always be prepared on the go.
- sewing kit with scissors
- duct tape
- quick dry towels
- different sized bags for storage, moving around, etc.
- fitted bed sheets (you’ll probably have a ¾ or a double bed so don’t bring twin size)
- a pocket knife really comes in handy and my leatherman has proven itself useful countless times
- a good can opener. You won’t find one here.
- French press and coffee. Another thing you won’t need during training but could have shipped.
- any food that you can’t live without. Think ranch dressing, hot sauce, candy, etc. Or leave all that behind you and save it for a package that you’ll savor.
- zip lock bags. You can put all of them inside one and they’re perfect for the village. Put your cords and small electronics in and do it early… that’s another regret of mine.
- Diva cup- ladies, I swear by these. I brought 2 since you never know what you’ll drop down the chim. It’s awkward at first but I’ll never go back.

Miscellaneous extras I’m very glad I brought: This was something I really excelled at in my packing. I’m a very random person and it has led me to have the homiest hut of anyone I know. I have also made many, many children very happy.
- my bear, anything that will get you through homesickness
- tapestry/anything compact for decorating
- lighters (you can buy them here but they’re expensive)
- Tylenol pm and tums (calcium is hard to find in the village)
- activities with kids like coloring books, crayons, construction paper, glue, cards, hacky sack, toys, candy, nail polish, whoopee cushions. You’ll be incredibly popular with these items.
- baby wipes (they’re not necessary but sometimes they’re heaven, you’ll find out why!)
- a football, tennis balls, I brought my baseball glove and some balls and now I have a team! Only 1 other person in my intake brought a glove but it was nice to have a catch those first days at The Barn.
- small bottle of laundry soap from REI (good for washing your undies after your bath. Your new mamas do not want to see these items when they wash your clothes during training).
- solar shower bag, it really heats water nicely and you don’t have to put in a ridiculous amount of effort for a hot bath.
- journals, loose paper, index cards, envelopes, good pens and pencils
- address book
- small wallet
- scrapbook, photos to hang up
- pot holders and dish rags
- 2-sided magnified mirror and tweezers. You can still keep up with your appearance. My kids also love the magnified side of my mirror.
- nail clippers. You can’t bring too many, they’re a hot ticket item.
- a good razor and lots of refill packs
- lots of deodorant, toothbrushes, toothpaste, soap, sunscreen, lotion, pumice stone, nail brush (great for feet), hair elastics, clips, etc.
- makeup for special occasions

The electronics I brought and I’m very glad I did:
- laptop. You can keep it locked up through training and keep it at the PC house in your province if you don’t want it in the village. I keep mine in the village and watch movies in bed!
- kindle
- ipods. I brought 2 and broke them both within 6 months but they make life worth living. Keep them in the ziplock bags.
- solio. I know there are way too many options for solar chargers but I just got the basic small solio and it’s all I need but I’m blessed with electricity 3km from my hut. You really only need to charge your phone and ipod, solio is fine for both.
- shortwave radio. I don’t actually use this much and wish I’d saved my money but some people are obsessed with theirs.
- bring extra cords for ipods and such and it will likely help you to make friends!

Peace Corps provides a solar lantern, water filter, med kit, mosquito net, blanket and non-fitted sheets so don’t worry about those things. You also get a huge allowance to move into your new home after you swear in so you can buy all of your furniture, pots and pans, etc. You get to live in your house for a few days towards the end of training before you swear in, so you’ll know what you’re going to want/need. Keep in mind for the things that you’ll want eventually but don’t need in training, it’ll make it easier on your loved ones if you just have an already bought pile ready for when you need it shipped.

Good luck, you have nothing to worry about, and happy packing! I can’t wait to meet all you new REDs in training!

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Some Things That I Have Learned… “Understanding is the Best Prevention”


I’m just getting back from a prolonged stay in Chipata town that lasted 12 days. I was going a bit crazy being away from my village for so long but I was asked to come in for a series of project workshops. One was a TEFL Counterpart Workshop where all education volunteers in my province came with an English teacher from their respective school… More on that another time. The first workshop I attended was based entirely on HIV/AIDS and how we can sensitize our communities on prevention, care and treatment. Again, this workshop was designed for a volunteer to bring a counterpart from their community so we could learn and plan together. The program was eye-opening and in my opinion, it truly prepared us to address the crisis of HIV in this country in our own small ways.

In the United States we learn from an early age, I think it was maybe grade 5 for me, about sexual health and everything relating to STIs that we never wanted to know. It came up in health class every other year until graduation, it was a part of the curriculum and whenever HIV was taught, I remember thinking of it as something that was not common and could never happen to me or anyone I knew. In the US, less than 1% of the population is infected with HIV. This statistic is partially skewed if you take into account that the rate is higher in densely populated, urban areas and almost non-existent in more rural areas (i.e. where I come from). Either way, before coming here HIV and AIDS was something that never came up in my day to day life and was something I hardly thought about, which is really sad considering how serious this epidemic is in our world. It is a crisis that we all need to face together.

I’ve assembled some information about the prevalence of HIV and included some hard-to-face truths. I don’t know how important it is to site my sources in a blog format but most of these numbers came from http://aids.gov and from the Zambia Demographic and Health Survey. Please remember how important it is that we all understand what is going on in our world and keep in mind that it is something that needs to be addressed.

From the most recent global statistics, 33.4 million people are now living with HIV/AIDS. Of those infected, 97% are living in low and middle-income countries, particularly in sub-Saharan Africa. As I’ve seen now in my everyday life, most people who are either living with HIV or who are at risk have little access to prevention, care, and treatment. In other parts of Zambia and throughout the world there is no help at all.  One of the most important things to understand is the impact that HIV has on a country’s development. “The HIV epidemic not only affects the health of individuals, it impacts households, communities, and the development and economic growth of nations. Many of the countries hardest hit by HIV also suffer from other infectious diseases, food insecurity, and other serious problems.” I can’t stress enough how true that is from what I’ve seen and heard during my last year here.

As of 2008, the prevalence of HIV in Zambia was reported at 14.3%. This number came from a nationally representative sample of over 13,500 Zambians.  That’s about one in seven Zambians, ages ranging from 15 to 49, that are known to be HIV positive. There is a huge fluctuation between rural and urban areas; almost one in four people living in Lusaka, Zambia’s capital city, are known to be infected. A significantly higher percentage of women are known to be HIV positive than men, 16% of women compared to 12% of men in general and 23% of women compared to 16% of men in urban areas. This is largely due to the sexual violence that is common in Zambia. That is a subject all on it’s own, so I’ll save it for another time but the fact is that girls here aged 15-24 are nearly twice as likely to be HIV positive than the boys their age. 

Unfortunately, it’s known that the majority of Zambians have never been tested for HIV although most do know where to get a test. There is a stigma towards it and a general attitude about sexual practice that many Zambians, particularly Zambian men, won’t change. It’s hard to grasp that some of the most common prevention methods are shunned because of how people were raised to think about sex, but with the death of around 89,000 people from AIDS every year and an estimated 630,000 AIDS orphans left behind, more and more Zambians are listening.

The workshop I attended was sponsored by PEPFAR (Presidents Emergency Plan For AIDS Relief), which comes from the American government. The budget that PEPFAR set aside for Zambia alone in 2007 was $216 million for prevention, care and treatment and an additional $25 million to aid in the prevention of mother-to-child transmission. I can’t even fathom how much money that really is or where it all goes to but if the trends continue from the previous survey done in 2001-02, we can expect at least a slight decrease in HIV prevalence. The last survey was done in 2007 so we will have updated statistics available this year. It’s an exciting time to be here, to have substantial evidence that our program is either working or needs work.

As a Peace Corps Volunteer living in sub-Saharan Africa, one of my primary goals is to spread knowledge about HIV and AIDS and to promote safe sex and regular testing. Currently my counterpart, Josephine, and I are planning a Voluntary Counseling & Testing (VCT) event for all residents of Chadiza. Josephine has an Anti-AIDS club and I have my Boys & Girls Club so we are working together with our kids to plan and perform dramas at the school, in the market and at the local clinic. These dramas will help to sensitize the community and to promote the event, which will take place at the end of March. (Side note, all Zambians love dramas. They love watching them but more than anything they love performing. If you’ve ever seen a Nigerian film, and I don’t recommend it, you’ll have an understanding of the acting chops out here. Still, it’s a nice way to teach and to learn.) I’m excited to be forming and expanding my own goals as a Peace Corps Volunteer and am very glad to have a deeper understanding of life here.

Even if this is something that does not affect you directly, there is still a lot to be done, whether by spreading knowledge on prevention, aiding in the care of someone who is living HIV positive or contributing to an organization that is providing relief.





Monday, January 14, 2013

New Beginnings


I’m now back at my school in Chadiza, getting ready for the beginning of Term 1. I arrived back in Eastern Province last week after my latest great adventure. The purpose of this blog is not to go on about my vacations so I’ll only briefly describe my holidays in Tanzania.


To start, I hitched down to Lusaka with a friend from Eastern and we traveled up through Central Province to Northern to meet up with 6 other friends traveling together to Zanzibar, the Spice Islands off the coast of Tanzania and birthplace of the late, great Freddie Mercury. From Northern Province (NoPro as they call it) we got on a train that took us on a 3-day journey to Dar Es Salaam. We arrived on Christmas Eve and spent an incredible Christmas day sightseeing and eating some of the best Indian food I’ve ever had. We then hopped on a ferry to take us to Zanzibar and spent over a week on the island, shopping, eating, lazing around on the beach, celebrating the New Year and overall just enjoying the company of long separated friends. All of us met during training and are part of the same program focusing in rural education.

Since the Education Development (RED) program works directly with Zambian schools, we’re at the mercy of the school calendar as far as travel time goes. School meets from January to early April, May to early August and September to early December. There are month long breaks in April, August and December so pupils can help at home with their family farms. The rains finally came in December, which means no child would be allowed to leave their fields to attend school since it’s time to plant crops. April is for harvest and August is for village repair, rebuilding and overall preparing for the upcoming growing season.

All other PCV programs are free to work and travel at their leisure. There is a lot of freedom in general in Peace Corps, but the RED program has specific goals and a tight deadline. I feel like my dedication to my school can really make or break the futures of my pupils, which is both extremely exciting and absolutely terrifying. During the past term I began taking apart the Ministry of Education (MoE) syllabus and planning for the course of the whole school year. I just found out that I will no longer be following my class from grade 8 to grade 9 but will restart with a new grade 8. Grade 9 is the grade that will determine if pupils know enough to move on to secondary school or if they have to repeat grade 9, otherwise they can opt to drop out.

In Zambian schools there are end of term exams for grades 7, 9 and 12. I really have my work cut out for me in Chadiza; even though 40% is considered a passing grade for these exams, only about 65-70% of pupils pass the grade 7 exam and 30-35% pass grade 9 each year.  That means that if trends continue, 65% of my former pupils will have the option to either start grade 9 over or stop completely.

If I hadn’t mentioned it before, Chadiza District has reportedly the lowest literacy rates of any district in Zambia. I can’t imagine where my pupils would rank with the rest of the world population. While I try hard to make my English classes fun and interesting, it’s impossible to get 100% attendance and participation rates. Bribing them with sweets for turning in 2 assignments each week has definitely increased the work I receive, but still some pupils are too shy or insecure of their abilities. The exams are all written in English so it’s a huge deal if the kids aren’t getting ahead in my class. This is a photo of the inside of my grade 8 classroom. It was too hard to fit all 48 of them in, so we took it outside.

My goal for this year is to work with my English teaching counterparts to bring the passing rates up to at least 50%. The MoE has specific guidelines in their syllabus that correlate directly to the exams, so teachers are expected to go through it before each term and lay out their schemes of work for each week in the term. In an ideal situation, these schemes are to be reviewed by the Headteacher of each school at the beginning of term. In reality, at least for the teachers that I work with, there isn’t a firm concept of how the required material flows and teachers are only prepared to teach straight from their outdated books, using entirely lecture-based teaching methods along with sample exercises that are given to the pupils but then never reviewed. Since the end of term exams are the only grading system in place, pupils aren’t held accountable for any other work and they know it. Once material is covered it is forgotten and teachers move on to the next topic. This is frustrating because not much can be done to hold the pupils or teachers responsible for their work. Assignments are often ignored because there is no repercussion for a fail or an incomplete. It is possible for me to contact my pupil’s parents, but the education culture is so poor here that the concern over schoolwork would fall on deaf ears. The vast majority of previous generations had to accept their fate as farmers and the majority of their children will end up doing the same thing. In many cases, school is viewed as a distraction from the work that needs to be done to survive.

So, since I'm an extremely organized person with a school that has semi-reliable electricity, I've been working on breaking down the government-issued syllabus into structured lesson plans with teaching ideas that are more pupil-centered. This is great for me because I feel like I'm making something that can be used by teachers for years to come, and I don't have to depend on anybody else to make sure it gets done. That's an incredibly frustrating part of my job, attempting to work with other teachers who see no personal gain in doing extra work. Even mandatory teacher group meetings have about a 50% attendance turnout. 

As for now, I’m just trying to hit the ground running and use this in-between week to prepare for my lessons, after school clubs and other extra-curricular activities that I’m involved in. I appreciate all of the positive energy and feedback I’ve been getting throughout my time here but especially during this holiday season. It isn’t easy to be so far from home this time of year, but knowing what an incredible family and wonderful friends I have both Stateside and in Africa makes everything feel manageable. Wishing everyone a prosperous 2013 and feeling incredible blessed.